ENCHANTING RHODES

THIRD POST IN THE GREECE SERIES

The Island Rhodes (not to be confused with Rhode Island) is my personal favorite of the Greek Isles. As you move inland from the world famous Mandraki harbor, the landscape varies from endless blue seas to sandy beaches with dazzling crystal clear water to jagged rocky cliffs and finally to lush forested hills. Throughout centuries of Macedonian, Roman, Byzantine, Turkish, and Italian occupation, the people here have impressively maintained their own unique identity. Boasting architectural wonders from all these eras, the island is permeated with an unmistakable flavor of ancient and medieval history. The Palace of the Grand Master, built by the Knights of St. John, is a glorious remnant of the crusades. The piles of ancient cannon and mortar balls lying about in the Old Town really brought history to life in my mind. The Acropolis of Lindos and Temple of Apollo are lasting remnants of ancient Greece. For my money, the view from Filerimos Hill is a must on every trip to Rhodes. If you walk down the Italian built Stations of the Cross you will be met at the end by a small sanctuary, above which towers a huge cross. You can enter a door at the base, climb a tight cylindrical stairway and step out into the hollow cross beam to enjoy the magnificent view stretching as far as Turkey.

Tourism is such a prevalent industry here that most inhabitants of the island only work during the tourist season (roughly May-October) and take the rest of the year off (mainly because they often work 12-16 hour days and 6-7 day weeks during the busy season). As my companion Abel and I baked under the sun and sipped iced coffee at a rooftop café, we enjoyed some free entertainment involving the shopkeeper’s birds. A large parrot pecked and harassed a smaller caged bird to no end, which infuriated the owner, who punished the delinquent parrot by pouring glasses of cold water on his head (which made him very uncomfortable). Watching the crowds shop and meander, we discussed how Europeans seem to be in far better shape than Americans overall because they are generally more active. We also compared items we had purchased as mementos of the island; I had bought several small but stunning oil paintings recently completed by a local artist. Above the hustle and bustle on the streets below, we could see the sun starting to set over the Suleiman Mosque, and I decided that although tourism crowds the streets and congests the beaches, everyone should have the opportunity to see this place.

AH, MYKONOS...

SECOND POST IN THE GREECE SERIES

At end of The Bourne Identity, Jason Bourne escapes to a remote island paradise, away from the threatening chaos of the world (at least for a brief interlude). The isle was Mykonos, and people have been similarly escaping to this enchanted island sanctuary for centuries. Upon arrival, I was greeted by the same soft, warm evening sea breeze that has welcomed travelers from all over the world. The whitewashed coastal city is equal parts old fashioned charm and cosmopolitan innovation. As we strolled along the harbor on a perfectly still night, the shops and restaurants began to come alive with lights, music, and conversation. The incredibly narrow streets of “little Venice” beckon visitors to enter the shops and purchase some precious memento of this place to take home with them. The truth is you can’t take it with you; the experience of Mykonos far surpasses any description, photo, or souvenir.

Greek restaurant staff and shopkeepers are not at all timid or soft spoken, as all of them know full well that if they do not get your business, some other establishment certainly will. What would pass for intrusiveness or rudeness in the states is just eager hospitality and good business here (tourism is the leading industry by far). Don’t be surprised if you are seated with a menu in your hands before you even know what’s happening. And don’t think that a shortage of chairs or tables will present any problem to them, there is always a way to improvise! My friend Abel and I ended up getting wrangled in by the first restaurant we passed by a very enthusiastic girl with tattoos (she saw us coming a mile away). Don’t get me wrong, any table right on the beach is fantastic and the views are simply unbeatable, but there were better places just down the road, as we later realized to our dismay.

The ancient churches and trademark Mykonos windmills add to the old-world ambiance and charm, while even just the presence of the expensive yachts holding parties in the harbor make you feel like you are living the high life. It is as if all the worries of the world are prohibited in Mykonos, while relaxation and delight enjoy a magnificent free reign. I defy you to find a more romantic and tranquil place.

CITY OF THE VIOLET CROWN

FIRST POST IN THE GREECE SERIES

What meager words should I choose to describe the awe inspired by the Parthenon illuminated on a perfect moonlit night? Or the view from atop the Areopagus? Or the majestic sight of the legendary Acropolis? Suffice it to say that words escape me. My first night in Athens is spent wandering the city in ideal Mediterranean fall weather. There is a soft romanticism in the air which I thought only existed in fiction. Musicians serenade passersby. Couples stroll arm in arm the ancient marble streets without a care on earth. Candlelit sidewalk cafes beckon with the sounds of warm conversations and laughter over the clink of wineglasses. All my anxieties seem miles removed, and I marvel at how many endless centuries of history have shaped this place, this cradle of western civilization.

The temples and monuments honoring ancient Greek gods; Zeus, Ares, Apollo, and of course, Athena, are a testament to both the ingenuity and the devotion of the ancient Greeks. Here was the birthplace of democracy, philosophy, and western architecture, among many other pillars of modern civilization. To imagine the scope of what was undertaken by the ancients, with only primitive means at their disposal, is overwhelming. It is no wonder that the ancient Romans emulated the Greeks.

Tourism is the leading industry in the city, which draws crowds from across the world to witness its beauty and grandeur. One day, after spending the morning on the Acropolis, I visited a quaint little café in the Plaka, a popular village within central Athens. I’m proud to say that I was mistaken for a local. Restaurant and shop personnel speak both Greek and English very well, so I took it as a compliment that I was addressed in Greek, because I usually try to make it a point not to automatically give off a “tourist” vibe. While dining on a cheese soufflé and a delicious frappe, I met a lovely fellow American named Nina and we had a nice chat about the sights in Athens. She recommended I visit the new Museum of the Acropolis (still under construction, but allowing some visitor access), and I urged her to visit the Odeon of Herodus Atticus, an ancient theatre in the shadow of the Acropolis.

After lunch I was sitting on the marble steps in front of the Spanish Embassy when I was approached by an amiable Dutchman named Floris and his delightful young son (whose name I cannot pronounce, much less spell). Floris, luggage in tow, asked if I could be so kind as to help them find a hotel. You see, he had promised his son a trip a European city of his choice, and the little tyke had selected Athens. In the spirit of adventure and exploration, they had simply purchased plane tickets and embarked on the journey without as much as a tentative itinerary. I admire this risk-taking, carefree quality in Europeans. It is something that many Americans, me included, could learn a great deal from. I took the venturesome duo to my hotel, which may have been nicer than they needed, but they were so grateful and kind that my dwindling faith in humankind was instantly rekindled on the spot.

There is too much beauty in Athens to express. The most powerful spot for me was the Areopagus, where the Apostle Paul spoke to the Athenian philosophers about a “God who dwelleth not in temples made by hands.” Go there for yourself. Visit the Parthenon, visit the Academy, visit the Parliament building and the monument to the Unknown Soldier, visit the ancient Agora, see the Arc of Hadrian, but most of all, wander the city and take in the atmosphere, the people, the culture, the history, and the splendor. It will be time well spent. Athens is a living city, a city whose love for life is unavoidably contagious.

HUADU GLOWS WITH LIFE

THIS IS A TWO PART POST, FINAL CHAPTER OF THE CHINA SERIES

The more time I spent in China, the more I felt that something amazing is occurring there, like the massive awakening of a people long hindered from revealing their true potential, and I felt privileged to be along for the ride (if only temporarily). The street market in Huadu is quite an experience. Think noisy carnival in the midst of a vast construction project; a contemporary urban garage sale packed with people until the late hours. The sounds of bargaining and hawking and techno music fill the hot, damp evening air as we stroll down the avenue, passing vendors displaying everything from lingerie to cell phones. One guy offered to cut my hair, which I declined, but I did break down and purchase a watch, which the seller assured me was made with “real metal.” A bargain at 20 Yuan, it stopped working 2 weeks later, lasting about 13 days longer than I expected. The animal market was truly a shocking ordeal. The smell of flesh and blood permeates the dank air, as merchants pedal snakes, turtles, chickens, fish, ducks, and much more. Butchers chop and weigh meat of the very freshest variety, and we draw more than a few stares from locals as I try to hide my revulsion. I wonder how many foreigners they encounter wandering through these halls of death. My guess is not many. We were looking for boiled scorpion, but couldn’t find any.

We used Huadu as our transportation hub, catching buses to other places of interest from a station in front of the New Century (a ritzy modern hotel), and other buses or vans back to the campus afterwards. We enjoyed a wonderful Korean meal one afternoon (aside from the Kim chi, which I will never like no matter how open-minded I try to be).

During my last evening in China, I was looking for some souvenirs of what I perceived as Chinese culture, such as a scroll featuring calligraphy and Chinese artwork. Locating such commodities in a place like Huadu is no easy task. Everyone is selling new technology and practical things, and there is next to no interest in cultural artwork or historical artifacts. However, after much searching, we found several excellent wall hangings with hanzi characters in a secluded bookstore on the third floor of an unassuming shop. Also, I wanted a Yao Ming basketball jersey, but mistakenly inquired of Albert if he knew where I could buy a Mao jersey. After much laughter at visions of Mao Zedong playing for the Houston Rockets, I assured him that if a Mao jersey existed, I wanted that too. I wish I could have captured more of this place and stolen it home with me.

CHINA RESHAPED MY WORLD

What an exciting, progressive, impressive, overwhelming, and authentic place is China. I am already drawn to return to this dichotomy of light and darkness, aspiration and despair, hope and desperation. My favorite parts of China are its levels of discomfort, of unfamiliarity, of enlightenment, and of danger. I wonder how many tourists visit this country and don’t ever really see it. Take this small piece of advice…when you travel, don’t bring your expectations with you. Enter with open eyes and a clean slate. The place will carve itself onto your psyche in a genuine and powerful way if you allow it. Pay no mind to reviews on Trip Advisor, which are full of luxury seekers. Be a truth seeker. If all you want is dependable room service, excellent cuisine, beautiful views, the highest level of comfort and the greatest amount of stars for your restaurants and hotels, then do the world a favor and seek these things closer to home.

There is no way to describe China without contradicting yourself. It is a nation of contradictions. Any traveler who experiences this cannot help but view it with equal levels of awe and disgust, and to describe it with both fondness and aversion. Be assured, if you have feelings within you, China will bring them out.

Tomorrow I leave for Greece, the Greek Islands, Turkey, and Israel. I wish you all the best until I return with more stories. Thank you for sharing the adventure with me.