HONG KONG, THE NEW CITY OF LIGHTS

After a four hour bus ride from Huadu, we arrive at the Hong Kong customs station. Inside, I start snapping photos and a smartly-dressed security guard runs at me and shouts “no photo!” or something to that effect. It seems strange to me that I should need an additional visa to get back into China after visiting HK, which I had naively thought was just another Chinese city. But since the British handed control back to the PRC in 1997, they treat it almost like a sovereign territory. Hong Kong has its own currency (HK Dollars), its own traffic laws (they drive on the left side of the road like the British), and its own border security.

We exchange our RMB in for HKD and then we get “Octopus Cards”, which will work as payment for the subway as well as many nearby eateries and shopping centers. As we stroll through Kowloon, dodging traffic and hawkers (aggressive street vendors), we notice the gold medal match for women’s beach volleyball (China v. US) playing live in one restaurant, so I suggest we eat lunch there. I order fried eggplant and noodles and Albert orders chicken and curry (welcome to HK, the international cuisine!). I am surprised to be given a fork rather than chopsticks. USA wins the match and we silently cheer.

We finally locate the hostel we were looking for (run by a friend of Albert’s, a kind and helpful chap named Stanly) and discover that they have no available rooms. However, the hostel next door, also run by Stanly, does have a room for us! After dropping off our things, we head out into the city, destined for the world-famous Hong Kong harbor. The nice thing about the harbor is that there is no traffic, and hawkers aren’t allowed, the result being a much more relaxing environment. Fountains, sculptures, palm trees, and various exhibits on the Olympics dot the harbor area, but even in this serene locale, one simply cannot escape the mood of excited advancement and swift prosperity that exudes from the city.

Walking along the bay, we stroll down the “Avenue of Stars”, Hong Kong’s version of Hollywood, featuring actors, directors, and various other celebrities of China. I can scarcely get a clear view of Jackie Chan’s star long enough to take a photo because of its popularity with Chinese tourists. An iron statue of Bruce Lee watches over the city. We sip macchiatos in front of Starbucks and watch people for a while, just taking in all of the magnificent beauty of this thriving, progressive city. You will see many international tourists in HK, mostly of the Prada variety, but also many Chinese, who revel in the impressive modernity and success of this place. They beam with pride. Across the bay is Hong Kong Island with its towering structures and rolling hills.

We are lucky enough to catch a tour of the bay on a boat which is nearly deserted, and at the perfect time of night while the sun sets, throwing golden light on the reflective towers on the island. We arrive back at the harbor in time catch dinner and get a good spot overlooking the island for the nightly light show. Every night, Hong Kong Island dazzles spectators across the bay with colorful lights mounted on buildings, shining in sequence, and laser lights flashing through the sky, all coordinated with music playing on speakers at the harbor. We catch a late movie and sleep well in our small but cozy beds.

The next morning finds us departing in a hurry, ahead of schedule due to an approaching typhoon. As we rush through the subway station to catch the right train and reach the bus terminal in time, I decide that Hong Kong is an extraordinary mix of San Francisco and New York, with a dash of Hollywood thrown in for good measure.